I finally have the Belt Grinder video completed. Video is available on YouTube
I’m still working on the complete parts lists and drawings. The next couple of weeks I am going to be VERY busy with my day job so it may be a while before I can post the drawings and full parts list. Until then, here is a list of the major parts and where I purchased them.
The KBAC-27D speed controller and gas spring was purchased from Amazon
I purchased the 1.5″ square x 24″ Aluminum bar and 1.5″ square x 24″ steel tube from my local metal shop. You can also find vendors on eBay and Amazon.
I purchased the TechTop 1.5HP, 3 phase motor (BL3-AL-TF-56C-2-B-D-1.5) 56C Frame, 3600 Rpm from eBay. There are several vendors that have these.
You can use just about any motor that is between 1 and 3HP. Make sure you get a totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) model. That way the metal particals won’t get in the motor and cause problems.
If you are going to use a 3 phase motor with a speed controller, make sure it is rated for use with a speed controller. General purpose motors are not typically rated for use with speed controllers.
[UPDATE 19 June 2017] I still haven’t gotten back to finishing up the drawings and plans. At this time, I’m thinking I might put completing them on indefinite hold. If there is enough interest, I will make time to finish the plans. Please leave a comment letting me know you would be interested in purchasing a set of plans. I’ll probably list them for around $8
So I purchased a 168lb anvil several months ago and due to several family obligations I had been unable to find time to build it a proper stand. Finally last weekend I found a few minutes and built it a stand. Hopefully now I will get some time to do a bit of Blacksmithing with my new anvil.
I built my stand to have a finished height (with anvil) of around 32″-33″. Since my anvil is around 12″, this meant my stand needed to be in the 20″ tall range. This was what was comfortable for me, I recommend you determine the ideal height of your anvil before building a stand. There are numerous recommendations and methods for finding the best height for your anvil and you could probably fill several books with the various methods. I recommend searching around the various blacksmiths forums and finding a method that works best for you.
After building the stand I created a simple CAD drawing which is available for download. If you are building a stand with the same height as mine, please note that the dimensions don’t have to be followed exactly and can be rounded to the nearest 1/8″ without issue. The precision in the drawing is a result drawing them in CAD where the software works in an “ideal” world. The most important thing is to make sure the angles of your cuts are consistent and the lengths of the diagonal legs are the same.
If you are building a stand with a different height, you will need to use a bit of simple Trigonometry to find the lengths and angles. There are several online calculators that can assist you if your Trig is a bit rusty like mine.
A quick search came up with this one Carbide Depot – Trig Calculator which seems to work well. Keep in mind that you may need to enter the adjacent angle for the calculations. For example. My drawing shows the angles as 60deg. When you enter them in the calculator you would need to enter them as 30 deg. This is also the case for setting the angle on your miter saw.
If you are using the CarbideDepot calcualtor, you will need to enter the stand height in the “side a” field and then 1/2 the foot print in the “side b” field. If you want a 30″ wide footprint, enter 15″. The calculator will then return the angles and lengths. It is more then likely that the angle will be some fractional angle you will never be able to set your miter saw to. I recommend rounding it to the nearest 5 or 10 degree step that can easily be cut on your miter saw. You can run the calculator again this time using the height (side a) and the rounded value for “angle B” This will give you the leg lengths using those new values.
As I said earlier, this isn’t a precision build. You can round to something close but the most important thing is to make sure the angles of your cuts are consistent and the lengths of the diagonal legs are the same.
Links to the CAD drawing and the build video are below.
Up front, this is far from my best work. It was a project of necessity and was a case of function before beauty.
I was in the process of building a cordless drill charging and storage station (will be a future post) and needed a crosscut sled for my old tablesaw. Since I don’t plan to use this tablesaw for very long, I wasn’t too concerned about the appearance of the sled. I just wanted something that worked.
I scrounged around the workshop and found an old piece of shelf board from Lowes. It was about 1/2″ thick,wasn’t warped, and laid flat on the tablesaw. I don’t think I measured anything other than to make sure the fence was square to the blade. I just went by what felt right or looked right.
It isn’t pretty and won’t get any awards for best design, but it works and that is about all I was looking for.